How to Pack Everything in Your Home for a Move
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Moving to a new home is an exciting adventure. However, safely packing an entire household of stuff is quite the buzzkill.
It can feel overwhelming and chaotic to find all the right moving supplies, sort through what to keep or toss, organize and wrap everything, and pack and label all those boxes. Packing can just seem like too much - especially when you're trying to manage all your other moving chores.
To ease the difficulty of packing, we've developed this comprehensive packing guide full of helpful tips and pointers that will make your packing experience more efficient and far less intimidating. We've organized it by the room in your house so you can easily reference the guide at any stage of your packing progress. Equipped with the knowledge of how to pack for moving, you'll have more time and energy to focus on the more enjoyable aspects of your moving adventure.
General Packing Tips
General Packing Tips
<General Tips>
1. Start early - organize and make a plan
As soon as you know you'll be moving, take the time to get organized and make a plan - especially if you're moving long distance. Three of the most important first steps before packing are: 1) creating a moving checklist with a timeline, 2) purge your belongings, and 3) hire a reputable moving company. Book early to avoid peak pricing. When you get free quotes from Great Guys Moving, we'll connect you with affordable, licensed, and insured movers you can trust.
2. Purge
Purging simplifies packing. Room by room, mercilessly weed out the stuff that's worn out, you don't need, or haven't used in a long time - or ever. Sell books to a used bookstore and sell furniture you plan to replace. Donate canned food to your local food pantry and clothing to your favorite charity thrift store. Plan a yard sale and sell items on Craigslist, Letgo, or eBay. After purging, you'll have less to pack - and since movers charge by weight, less weight equals a more affordable move.
3. Establish a 'Do Not Move' zone
Keep valuables and essentials with you during your move. Designate a closet or a corner of a room for the items that will not go on the moving van. Place a clearly visible sign reading, 'Do Not Move' on the pile, so things like your prescriptions and fine jewelry won't accidentally end up on the moving truck.
Valuables and personal documents
Put valuables such as your moving company contract, deeds, birth certificates, passports, social security cards, fine jewelry, cash, backed-up external drives, and such in a secure box or bag. Whether you're flying or driving to your new home, keep these items with you throughout the move. Label this box or bag 'Do Not Move.'
Essentials
Essentials include things like prescription medications, everyday toiletries, toilet paper, wipes, towels, change of clothes, snacks, and such. Your list of essentials will vary depending on how far you're moving. If you're moving long distance, pack the essentials you'll need to survive the first few days or weeks, depending on the mover's expected delivery timeline. Label this box 'Do Not Move.'
Prohibited to be transported on the moving van
Since moving companies won't transport hazardous or perishable items, also put those things in the 'do not move' zone if you want to keep them. Otherwise, donate or dispose of them properly before you move.
4. Pack non-essential items first
Get a head start on the packing process and pack non-essential items first. You'll be surprised at how infrequently you use many items in your home. These include things you love and that make your home unique, such as artwork, decorative accessories, and trinkets. Also pack out-of-season clothing, holiday décor, china, crystal, and books.
5. Take apart furniture when possible
Large beds with integral foot and headboards, wall units, sectionals, and other big bulky pieces need to be disassembled to get through doorways, to fit up and down the stairs, and to avoid taking up extra space on the moving van. Some people are handy with tools and can dismantle objects quickly, while even enjoying the job. Others, not so much! If you'd prefer some help, Great Guys Moving will connect you with an expert team who can disassemble and reassemble furniture for you in a jiffy.
6. Create an inventory
Inventory apps, like Sortly, are a handy way to keep track of what you pack. If you decide to use an app, in addition to labeling boxes by contents and destination room, also number them. This way, if you need something that's in a box, you can quickly look up the box number on your inventory app. If you need your corkscrew, you won't have to dig through stacks of boxes labeled 'kitchen' to find it.
7. Label everything
We can't stress this step enough. Label everything. Without labeling, unpacking will be extremely frustrating. It's especially important to clearly label boxes that contain fragile items. Write 'fragile' in big thick lettering on all sides and the top of the box, so the movers will know this box requires special handling. You don't want the movers to stack four boxes of books on top of your unlabeled box of Riedel wine glasses.
8. Turn on the music!
Whether you're packing your kitchen or your closet, listen to your favorite tunes while you're working. Music is known to elevate mood, improve performance, and reduce stress, so why not make the most of your packing experience!
9. Before you start packing, gather all your moving supplies
The next section outlines all the supplies that can help make packing more efficient.
<Moving Supplies>
1. Boxes
- Types: Boxes are available in standard or heavy-duty, and both types come in four basic sizes. You may also need specialty boxes such as TV, wardrobe, document, and cell boxes for glassware. The 1.5 small carton, also known as a 'book box,' is one of the most useful moving boxes - perfect for anything breakable, delicate, or heavy - and of course books.
- How many?: Standard metrics help you calculate how many boxes you'll need for a particular size household. For example, experts recommend between 80 - 100 for a three-bedroom house.
See our complete guide to moving boxes here.
2. Plastic containers and vacuum storage bags
Plastic containers and vacuum storage bags are especially useful if you plan to store items after your move. Plastic containers come in all sizes and keep things cleaner than cardboard boxes. They can also prevent pests and insects from getting into your belongings. Additionally, plastic containers enable you to refine packing and storage by color-coding. For example, you can place winter clothing in blue boxes and the kids' toys in yellow boxes.
3. Alternatives to single-use plastics
After unpacking, plastic bags, bubble wrap, and packing peanuts most often end up in a landfill, so try to make minimal use of single-use plastics when packing. When gathering your packing supplies, consider using a mattress box instead of a plastic mattress bag, Kraft paper instead of movers' wrap, and packing paper instead of zip-top baggies. If used correctly, packing paper provides as much protection as bubble wrap or styrofoam peanuts and panels, and at a much lower cost - plus it's recyclable. For convenience, we include some single-use plastics supplies in our guide, like zip-top baggies and movers' wrap, which you can use at your discretion.
4. Mattress bags and boxes
Moving is hard on mattresses. Heavy, bulky mattresses get dragged along the floor and through doorways and hallways. Without adequate protection, your mattresses could get covered in dirt, or worse, snagged and torn. Maintain the considerable investment you have in your mattresses and box springs and ensure they stay protected by using mattress bags or boxes. Mattress boxes provide even more protection and are an excellent alternative to a single-use plastic mattress bag.
5. Wrapping and cushioning materials
You'll wrap most of your household items to protect them from damage. And most boxes will need appropriate cushioning before placing these wrapped items inside. One of the most affordable, useful, and eco-friendly cushioning and wrapping materials available is packing paper or newsprint paper (non-inked). We don't recommend using regular newspaper because the ink can stain clothing, china, and other items. In our packing guides, we use the term 'packing paper,' which can also mean non-inked newsprint. You can also cushion with old towels, t-shirts, or bedding.
6. Moving blankets
Moving blankets are a must for padding and protecting furniture and appliances. A leather chair, for example, should be covered with moving blankets and secured with movers' wrap. You can also pad spaces between items in the moving van with blankets to prevent things from shifting, scratching, and getting damaged.
7. Protective materials for unboxed items
Movers' wrap is a commercial-grade plastic preferred by most movers because it secures moving blankets without sticking and provides furniture with an added layer of protection. Although extremely handy, movers' wrap is a single-use plastic that will end up in landfill after your move, so use sparingly. Alternatively, you can secure moving blankets with packing tape. Kraft paper is an excellent material for wrapping rugs, disassembled furniture legs, fireplace tools, and other items that won't fit in boxes.
8. Packing tape
Packing tape is specifically designed to adhere to cardboard moving boxes; avoid using masking tape or scotch tape to seal boxes because it will quickly detach. There are several eco-friendly types of packing tape available.
9. Tape gun
You'll find that a tape gun is an essential packing tool. Rather than needing three hands to position, tape, cut, and keep the tape from sticking to itself, a tape gun lets you seal any box or object single-handedly.
10. Scissors and a utility knife
You'll need reliable tools to cut any number of items during packing. Whether you're cutting paper, cardboard, rope, or twine, the job will be faster and easier with sharp scissors or a utility knife. A utility knife or box cutter is the best tool for cutting open taped boxes when you're unpacking.
11. Labels
Out of sight, out of mind - we quickly forget what's inside a packed box, especially when those boxes start piling up. Labeling each box is critical to both a smooth move and easy unpacking. Some people favor using color-coded labels that inform movers of which room the color-coded box goes in. If you go this route, prepare a master template of your new floor plan with the color code for each room and distribute the plan to each member of the moving team.
12. Permanent black markers
Using a permanent black marker is the most straightforward and easiest way to label boxes. Buy wide-tip markers so that your writing will be easily legible. Use your marker to cross out any lettering on re-used boxes and always include the contents and destination room on each box.
13. Tools
Your basic household toolbox should contain pliers, a wrench, both slot and Phillips head screwdrivers or an electric drill, a hammer, level, tape measure, utility knife, and a flashlight. This tool kit will come in handy for managing all kinds of moving chores and is essential for disassembling furniture, like bed frames and table legs.
<Boxes>
1. Estimate the number of boxes you'll need
The total number of boxes you'll need will depend on your home's square footage, the number of family members, your lifestyle, how long you've lived there, and more. On average, for a household of 1,800 to 2,200 square feet, you'll need 42 small, 41 medium, 26 large, and 15 extra-large boxes.
2. Gather your moving supplies and create a packing station
In addition to a variety of boxes, create a packing station supplied with packing paper, tape, a tape gun, scissors, utility knife, and permanent black markers. Save yourself thousands of steps and make your packing station portable, so you can efficiently pack room by room. Dedicate a medium-sized moving box filled with your supplies. Label it 'packing supplies' so it doesn't get lost amid the other boxes.
3. Securely tape the bottom seam of the box
Use two overlapping layers of packing tape to seal the bottom seams of boxes containing books, china, glassware, and other heavy or fragile items. You don't want the contents oozing out of the bottom of the box every time it's lifted and moved.
4. Pad the bottom of the box with cushioning
Before you start layering in items, provide a generous layer of padding at the bottom of the box. Crumpled packing paper is a terrific material for cushioning. If the box gets dropped, that bottom layer will help protect the contents. Plus, if your load travels over rough ground like potholes, each box will have that protective layer of padding, so contents stay safe.
5. Pack items by room and group like items
Both packing and unpacking are so much easier if you pack your belongings by room. Refine this step further by packing the items in the room separately, by similar things. For example, you can group plates and bowls in one box, your small kitchen appliances in another box, and glassware in yet another.
6. Select the appropriate box
It's tempting to grab a big box and fill it to the brim with plates, pots and pans, and small appliances. When filled, it's impossible to lift, dangerous to move, and can lead to items getting broken. Follow the guideline of using big boxes for lightweight things like pillows and comforters, small boxes for heavier items, cell boxes for glassware, and heavy-duty boxes for china.
7. Wrap fragile items
If an item is fragile or breakable, like most ceramics and glassware, wrap each piece with several layers of tissue and packing paper before placing it in the moving box. Be careful not to pack too many heavy, fragile items together. Large ceramics, like tureens and platters, should be divided up between dishware boxes.
8. Place heavier items on the bottom
Always place heavier items on the bottom of the box. However, keep in mind that just because an item is large doesn't necessarily mean it's heavy. Large, very fragile items should go towards the top, with plenty of surrounding cushioning.
9. Be sure boxes aren't too heavy
It's easy to get on a roll and fill boxes without realizing how heavy they've become. Try to divvy up heavy items between boxes. Don't risk straining your back by packing boxes that are too weighty. Also, note that heavy content can easily cause the bottom of a box to break open. Be sure to use extra tape on the bottom and write 'heavy' on the box.
10. Fill empty spaces with padding
Lifting, stacking, transporting - all these movements cause contents to shift. Avoid breakage and damage by crushing up extra paper and padding all the empty spaces in each box. Packing the air spaces also prevents boxes from collapsing when you stack other boxes on top.
11. Close the box and seal seams with tape
Once the box is full but not too heavy, and you've filled in void spaces with crushed packing paper, it's time to close the box and seal the top seam with packing tape. Sealing the box will keep the contents clean and secure.
12. Immediately label
It's so easy to forget what's inside a box when you're busy packing, so before you move on to the next box, immediately label the most recent one with its contents and room destination. Label each side of the box to avoid the hassle of having to move boxes around to see the label, which is especially maddening when a box is at the bottom of a stack.
How to Pack a Kitchen
How to Pack a Kitchen
<Dishes>
- Small and medium heavy-duty moving boxes
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Pieces of heavy cardboard the same size as the box
- Utility knife
- Permanent black marker
1. Establish a clear, clean packing station
A dining table makes an excellent space for packing dishes and china. You'll want all of your supplies available. If the table is small, place your packing supplies in a box and put the box on a chair next to the table to free up space.
2. Group same-sized items together before packing:
Stack each category of dishware such as dinner plates, salad plates, soup bowls, and so forth. This step will enable you to save space in each box and pack more efficiently. Check the dishwasher or drying rack before you start packing to make sure nothing gets left out.
3. Prepare the box
Heavy-duty boxes are specially designed for dishes and other items that need extra protection. Prepare one box at a time as you pack. Seal the bottom seam of the box with at least two layers of packing tape to ensure the base is sufficiently strong. Place a thick layer of tightly crumpled packing paper in the box. Avoid using newspaper - the ink will rub off and stain your china.
4. Wrap
Wrap each dish individually in packing paper. Place a stack of packing paper on the table. Set the plate or bowl at the corner of the paper near you. Pull the paper over the plate and roll the plate into the remainder of the paper, tucking in the sides as you go. When you get to the opposite corner of the paper, secure with tape.
5. Place the dishware in a box
Put the wrapped dishes on their edges in the box, so they stand up vertically. The heaviest items go in first. Keep the dishes at least two inches from the sides of the box by filling in this space with crushed paper.
6. Add another stack
Place a piece of heavy cardboard on the first layer. Now add more plates or bowls, on their edges, over the cardboard. Fill the sides around the stack with crumpled paper. Continue layering, using lighter items in each layer, until the stacks are about two inches from the top of the box. Then fill any empty space with more crumpled paper.
7. Seal and label the box
Tape the box closed and label the contents 'china' or 'plates and bowls' plus the destination, 'kitchen.' Write 'fragile' on all sides and the top of the box.
8. How to pack valuable china
Place the wrapped china in a heavy-duty medium size moving box following steps 3 - 7 above. Then, using a large, heavy-duty box, place a thick layer of crushed packing paper in the bottom. Place the medium size box of packed china in the large box and fill all the air space with plenty of cushioning on all sides and the top. Seal and label the box with 'china' plus the room destination — also, label as 'fragile' on all sides and the top of the box.
<Glasses & Mugs>
- Small- or medium-sized heavy-duty moving boxes
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Pieces of heavy cardboard the same size as the box
- Utility knife
- Permanent black marker
- Box labels (optional)
1. Establish a packing station
Your dining table makes a great space to pack glasses and mugs. Gather all of your supplies. If the table is small, place your packing supplies in a box and put the box on a chair next to the table to free up space.
2. Group same sized items together before packing
Check your dishwasher and drying rack for glasses or coffee mugs. Place the same sized items together in groups at your packing station.
3. Prepare the box
For boxes containing glasses and mugs, overlap two or three strips of packing tape on the bottom seam to ensure the box is sufficiently strong. Even though one glass may seem as light as a feather, when you fill a box with glassware or mugs, you'll be surprised at how heavy the box becomes. Next, place a generous layer of crumpled packing paper in the bottom of the box.
4. Wrap
Place a stack of packing paper on the table. Place each glass on the paper diagonally at the corner near you. Start rolling the glass away from you, stuffing the paper into and around the glass as you go. When you get to the opposite corner, secure it with a small piece of tape. Use the same method for coffee mugs, adding extra paper around the handle, so it's supported.
5. Place each glass and mug in the box upside down
Pack the heaviest glasses and mugs at the bottom of the box. When you have a full bottom layer, place a piece of cardboard that's the same size as the box on top of it. Add another layer of wrapped glasses or mugs, then another of cardboard, working your way up to the top of the box with lighter items.
6. Cushion the top, seal, and label the box
Leave two inches at the top of the box and fill the space with a layer of crushed paper. Seal and label the box 'Kitchen,' then 'glasses and coffee mugs.' In large letters, also write 'fragile' on all sides and the top of the box.
<Silverware>
- Small moving box
- Silverware tray
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Clear a counter or table and prepare the box
Create a clean, cleared-off space to pack and gather all of your supplies. Seal the bottom of a small box with packing tape and line the inside bottom with crushed packing paper.
2. Be sure your silverware is clean and dry
Check the dishwasher and drying rack to make sure you have your entire set. If any silverware is wet, carefully dry each piece before packing it.
3. Gather all pieces in categories
Start with your everyday flatware. Stack all your forks together and wrap them tightly with packing paper. Place the forks back in the silverware tray. Do this with each category of cutlery: salad forks, teaspoons, soup spoons, butter knives, knives, and so forth. If you are packing sterling silver pieces, these should never be stacked and wrapped. Instead, place these pieces individually in the dedicated sterling silver box or the separate pouches of a sterling cloth.
4. Place crushed paper in the open spaces
Prevent the rolled packs of silverware from moving and shifting by packing tightly around them with crumpled paper.
5. Wrap the silverware tray
Place the silverware tray on the stack of packing paper and wrap several layers of paper around it. Use packing tape to secure the packing paper. Alternatively, you can wrap several layers of movers' plastic wrap around the silverware tray to secure the contents.
6. Place the wrapped silverware tray in the moving box
Set the tray face up in the box. Don't put it in on its side or face down.
7. Separately wrap larger pieces
Some pieces, such as serving spoons and cake servers, will be too large to fit in the silverware tray. Wrap them individually and place them on top of the serving tray.
8. Fill any gaps
Use crushed paper to fill any empty spaces.
9. Close and seal the box
Tape the box closed and label the contents: 'Kitchen: Silverware.'
<Wine Glasses>
- Glass pack cell boxes
- Packing paper
- Tissue paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Use glass pack cell boxes
Stemware and valuable crystal glasses, even those without stems, should be wrapped individually and placed in separate cells. The cells provide each glass with ultimate protection.
2. Prepare the box
Seal the bottom of the box with several overlapping layers of packing tape. Make sure the bottom of the box is exceptionally secure. Fill the bottom of each cell with crushed tissue paper. Packing paper can be too stiff and doesn't provide the protection wine glasses and crystal require. Tissue paper provides softer protection and crumples tighter to fill empty spaces and provide support to delicate items.
3. Work with one glass at a time
Fill the bowl of each wine glass with crushed tissue paper. This filler provides extra protection during the moving process by supporting the glass from the inside. Place each glass diagonally on the corner of a stack of tissue paper and wrap several layers of paper around the glass as you roll it away from you. To provide extra support to the stem, fill the area around the stem with additional paper as you go. Secure the tissue with tape as needed.
4. Insert the glass upside down in the cell
Each cell already has crumpled tissue paper at the bottom. Place each glass upside down into the cell space. Pack crumpled tissue paper on top of the upside-down wrapped glass.
5. Cover all of the cells with a layer of crumpled packing paper, close and seal the box
Make sure to fill any empty spaces in each cell with crumpled tissue paper. The goal of filling space is to prevent glasses from shifting during transport. Tape the box closed and label the contents: 'Wine glasses' or 'crystal.' Also, write the room destination 'Kitchen,' 'Bar,' 'Dining Room,' and so forth. Finally, in large lettering, write 'Fragile' on all sides and the top of the box.
6. Place the packed box in a safe spot
Be sure to find a safe spot to store the boxes of packed wine glasses and crystal. You don't want other things, like boxes of books, to get stacked on top.
<Pots & Pans>
- Medium and large moving boxes
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up your packing station
Be sure to have a variety of box sizes ready to go. As tempting as it may be to use extra-large boxes for the largest and heaviest pots and pans, these boxes will be too heavy to lift when they're full of cookware. Create a clean cleared-off space to pack and gather all of your supplies.
2. Make sure all of your pots and pans are clean and dry
Before packing, ensure each piece is dry, so rust and mold won't develop during the move. Check your dishwasher or drying rack for pots, pans, lids, and removable handles than can easily escape notice.
3. Prepare your box
Tape the moving box closed along the bottom seam. Fortify it with a second layer of tape. Cushion the inside bottom of the box with crumpled packing paper.
4. Organize pots and pans that can nest inside of one another
Remove all lids. Select three or four pans that will nest together. Lay a sheet of packing paper over the top of the largest pan. Put the next size smaller pan on top of the paper and push the paper down as you gently push one pan into the other. Repeat this process with three or four more pans, pulling the paper up as you go.
5. Wrap the entire stack
Place the nested group on your pile of packing paper and pull up several layers of paper around it. Tape the paper down to ensure the stack is wrapped securely.
6. Wrap the lids
Wrap each lid separately with several layers of packing paper. If lids nest together, you can use the same wrapping method as in Steps 4 and 5.
7. Wrap cookie sheet and griddles
Wrap each sheet and griddle separately. Once wrapped, stack smaller sheets on top of larger sheets. Place the cookie sheets and griddles on their sides (so they are vertical), up against the sides of the box. If you have several sheets and griddles, balance the weight by placing a few on each side of the box.
8. Place the wrapped groups of pots and pans in the box
Place the most substantial wrapped pots and pans in the bottom of the box. Fill spaces around the wrapped groups to prevent shifting during the move. Leave about two inches of space at the top of the box. Place crumpled paper on the top of the wrapped pots and pans to fill any empty spaces.
9. Repeat this process with the remainder of your pots and pans
As mentioned in Step 1, you don't want to make your boxes too heavy to lift, or so full that they tear, so be sure to pack heavier items, such as cast iron skillets, in smaller boxes.
10. Close and seal the box
Tape the box closed and label the contents, 'Kitchen: Pots and Pans.'
<Knives>
- Small boxes
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Establish an area to pack
Clear a counter or work on your dining table, so you have a clean, uncluttered space for sorting, wrapping, and packing your knives.
2. Prepare the box
Tape the box closed along the bottom seam. Fortify it with a second layer of tape. Cushion the inside bottom of the box with crumpled packing paper.
3. Pack knives in a cutlery block
You can keep a set of knives in their cutlery block. Wrap a sheet of packing paper over the top of the handles and down the sides of the block. Tape around the paper to secure it in place. This paper will keep the knives from moving or falling out of the block. Then, place the block on several layers of overlapping packing paper. Roll the block, pulling the paper as you roll to cover the block completely. Run a band of packing tape vertically and horizontally around the block to additionally secure.
4. Group individual knives by size
If you aren't using a cutlery block, you'll need to pack your knives individually. If your knives have sheaths, insert the knife into the sheath. Then, group the knives by their size. Place all of your steak knives in one pile, paring knives in another, and so forth.
5. Wrap the knives
Place a stack of packing paper on the counter or table. Roll the first knife in two layers of paper. After a few rolls, add another knife, making sure the blade is in the alternate direction to the first blade. Fold the outside edges of the paper over the knives as you roll. Continue rolling one or two more knives. Seal the bundle with tape.
6. Wrap the knife bundle in a second sheet of packing paper
Roll the entire first bundle in another layer of packing paper for extra protection. Label the bundle 'knives,' so those who help you unpack will know to be extra careful as they unwrap the paper. Continue the process until you have wrapped all of your knives.
7. Place the bundles in your prepared moving box
Layer the bundles in the box. Place a layer of crushed packing paper on top of the bundles.
8. Seal and label the box
Tape the box closed and label the contents, 'Kitchen: Knives,' and in large lettering 'Sharp.'
<Spices>
- Small boxes
- Tissue paper
- Zip-top bags
- Plastic wrap
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Check with your mover
Before you go to all the trouble of packing them, ask your mover about their policy for transporting spices. If you're doing a DIY move, no problem, pack your spices and take them with you so that you can enjoy cooking with them in your new home.
2. Purge your pantry
If your moving company will transport your spices, get ready to pack. But first, toss out expired or stale spices, or herbs and seasonings that have lost their punch. After you throw out the contents, recycle the glass and plastic bottles.
3. Seal all containers
Check each jar, bottle, and package to make sure it's tightly sealed. Tape any open packages closed or place inside a plastic zip-top bag.
4. Cover holes in salt and pepper shakers
Place a piece of tissue paper over salt and pepper shaker holes, then tightly tape over the tissue.
5. Wrap each spice container in tissue paper
Wrap each glass spice bottle with tissue paper.
6. Seal oil and vinegar bottles
Ensure the caps are tightly closed to prevent bottles from leaking during transit. You may want to remove the lid, place a small piece of plastic wrap over the opening, then re-seal the bottle. Wrap bottles individually in several layers of tissue paper. Place the bottles in a zip-top bag and keep them upright. If an oil requires refrigeration, don't pack it - give it to a friend or neighbor.
7. Place wrapped spice containers in a small box
Make sure the small moving box is well-sealed on the bottom seam. Place crumpled tissue paper inside the bottom of the box, then place each wrapped container in the box. Fill empty spaces with crushed tissue paper, so all contents are completely immobile.
8. Seal and label the box
Tape the box closed and label the contents, 'Kitchen: Spices & Oils.'
An alternative method to packing spice containers in a small box
Pack wrapped spice containers in Dutch ovens, stockpots, and crockpots. Just as you would with a box, crumple tissue paper into the bottom of the pot to cushion the spice containers. Fill the pot with containers and crumpled tissue paper so nothing can move. Place crumpled paper over the jars and containers before putting the lid on the pot. Wrap the pot in several layers of packing paper and tape to secure it. You can pack the filled spice pot along with your other pots and pans. Be sure to label the box, 'Kitchen: Pots & Pans and Spices.'
<Food>
Moving food can be problematic. You'll need to know which types of food the moving company will transport, if any. Movers definitely won't transport perishable foods - anything frozen, refrigerated, or fresh is taboo. Some moving companies will move canned food. Your best bet is to ask before you start packing your pantry. Additionally, keep in mind that food is dense and will cost you money to move. It may be more economical to give away or donate food than to try and take it with you.
For DIY moves, you can essentially take any kind of food with you that you want. If you're moving a short distance, sure, it makes sense to pack up all your food and put perishables in an ice chest. But think twice about packing perishables for longer moves - they tend to spoil quickly, form mold, and attract insects.
If you decide not to take certain foods with you, see if there's a friend or neighbor who would like these items or donate non-perishable items to your local food bank. Alternatively, check out Move for Hunger, a non-profit that works with the relocation industry to reduce food waste and tackle hunger.
Here are our top tips for packing your food when moving.
- Small- and medium-size moving boxes or plastic bins
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Gallon size zip-top baggies
- Permanent black marker
- Ice chest and 'blue ice' gel packs or bottles of frozen water
1. Check with your mover
Food restrictions vary between local and long-distance moves. Specifically, ask about the types of foods your moving company will transport based on the distance of your move. Will they allow canned goods? Cello-wrapped pastas? Carton boxes of cereals? Before you go to the trouble of packing these items, be sure to find out if movers will permit them on the truck.
2. Purge your cupboards and pantry
Once you know which foods you can't take with you, donate them to your local food bank. Be sure to check expiration dates and throw away foods that are no longer nutritious or on the verge of spoiling. Dump the food in the trash or compost and recycle cardboard, glass, and plastic containers.
3. Consider your alcohol
The moving company absolutely will not take alcohol. Now's the time to drink up! Your friends will likely appreciate receiving what you can't consume before the move. If you have a valuable wine collection that you want to relocate, you'll need to hire a specialty moving company that maintains necessary licensing and uses climate-controlled transport.
4. Remember that canned goods and bottles are heavy
Evaluate the cost of transporting bulky items against the cost of replacement. Cans and bottled foods are heavy and can cause your transport costs to be higher than the cost of replacing the food at your destination.
5. Prepare your moving box
Overlap several layers of packing tape on the bottom seam of the box. Cushion the interior of the box with crumpled packing paper.
6. Prepare open containers
Open food bags, such as flour, sugar, and rice bags, can create a real mess if you don't seal them properly. Fold over the bag opening and seal it with packing tape. Place the bag in a zip-top baggie for extra protection.
7. Choose a box or bin
You may want to consider using a plastic storage bin, rather than a cardboard box, especially if your items are going into storage for a while. A plastic bin better protects your food from vermin and insects that could otherwise chew through cardboard.
8. Layer the heavier items on the bottom
Items like jars of peanut butter or spaghetti sauce go on the bottom of the box. Crackers and boxes of cereal go on top. Fill the open spaces with crushed packing paper so nothing will move or shift. If packing a glass bottle, wrap it with several layers of packing paper before placing it in the box.
9. Seal and label the box
Seal the box closed with packing tape and label all four sides and the top 'Kitchen: Food.'
<Small Appliances>
- Sturdy, medium-size packing boxes (or the original appliance boxes)
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Gather all your small appliances
Be sure you have the appropriate cords and detachable parts for each appliance. These pieces include beaters for hand mixers, blades for food processors, and such. Check your drying rack and dishwasher for any missing parts.
2. Make sure each appliance is thoroughly dry
Before wrapping, make sure each appliance and its parts are completely dry.
3. Pack in the original box
If you have the original appliance boxes, use those first. Wrap the cord prong so it won't scratch the appliance. Insert the appliance and its parts into the original box and fill any empty spaces with crumpled packing paper. Seal the box with packing tape. Then insert this box into another larger moving box with other small appliances.
4. Prepare the moving box
Tape the bottom seam of the moving box closed. Fortify the seam with a second layer of tape - remember, appliances can get heavy. Cushion the inside bottom of the box with crumpled packing paper.
5. Prep electric cords and prongs
Fold the electric cord of each appliance and secure it with a twisty tie. Wrap the prongs with some packing paper and tape the paper to ensure the prongs don't scratch anything. If a cord is removable, wrap it with paper and label it, so you'll know which appliance it belongs to.
6. Remove major detachable parts
Remove parts, then wrap each one separately with packing paper and label the item. For example, remove trays from the toaster oven, the carousel dish from the microwave, bowls from the stand mixer, the carafe from the coffee maker, and so on. Fill the cavity of glass items, such as a carafe, with crushed packing paper to provide additional support.
7. Wrap each appliance in several layers of packing paper
Tape the paper, so it stays closed and protects the appliance. Label the package so you'll be able to access it quickly after your move.
8. Place each appliance upright in the moving box
Leave about two inches between each appliance and fill the air space with crushed packing paper. Cover the tops of the appliances with plenty of crumpled packing paper before you close the box.
9. Seal and label the box
Tape the box closed and label the contents, 'Kitchen,' along with the specific appliances in the box such as 'coffee maker' or 'toaster oven.' If you're a coffee drinker, you'll definitely want to be able to find your coffee maker immediately after you move.
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How to Pack a Living Room
<Books>
- Book boxes and a few larger boxes for coffee table books
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up your packing station
Gather your packing supplies and set up a space to pack your books.
2. Organize the books and purge
There are several ways to organize your books for packing. You may want to keep certain books in particular rooms - such as packing your cookbooks with kitchen items, or children's books with other things from your child's bedroom. Or, you may want to go room to room and gather up all the books in your home and pack them together. Once you decide how you want to pack them, organize the books by size. Put your special books like collectors' or first editions in a separate stack. Purge as you organize your books. You don't want to pay the extra moving weight for books that have no use in your new place.
3. Prepare the moving box
Reinforce the bottom seam of the box with two layers of overlapping packing tape. Also, seal the bottom perpendicular seams for extra strength. Fill the bottom of the box with a layer of crushed packing paper.
4. Wrap your special books in packing paper
Your more valuable books require some extra TLC. Lay each book on a stack of packing paper and wrap it as you would a gift package. Use tape to secure the paper.
5. Choose a method for packing your books
- Side-by-side: Stack the books in the box side by side as if you were placing them on a shelf. Place the first row with the spines facing inward and the second row with the spines touching the spines of the first row.
- Flat: You can also safely pack books flat with the spines facing inward.
Fill the empty spaces and the top of the box with crumpled packing paper.
6. Pack your oversized books
- Wrap oversized books with several layers of packing paper. Secure the edges of the paper with tape.
- Lay the wrapped book flat on the crumpled paper.
- Layer three to five more wrapped books on the first, but no more than five.
- Fill the remainder of the box with lightweight, cushioning items like throw pillows or an afghan.
7. Seal and label each box
Tape the box closed and label the contents and the destination room (maybe some will go in a den, some will go in a master bedroom, and so forth).
<TV>
- TV moving box kit or the original TV box
- A soft blanket or other padding
- Tool kit
- Zip-top plastic baggies
- Movers' wrap
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Take photos
Before you do anything else, take photos. If the television is mounted to the wall, you'll want to see how to repeat the process. And you'll want to know how the various cables connect devices to the TV. Photos will be invaluable in jogging your memory when you go to remount the TV and reconnect everything.
2. Unplug cables and accessories
One at a time, unplug each accessory, like your DVD player, video game console, or Roku. Wrap each cord with a twisty tie, then place the bundle in a zip-top baggie. Label the baggie with the name of the accessory (i.e., 'AUX cord DVD Player'). Place the baggie on the device and secure using movers' wrap. Wrap the entire bundle in a few sheets of packing paper. Label the paper package with the name of the accessory, for example, 'DVD Player.'
3. If applicable, remove the TV from its wall mount
- If the TV slides onto the mount: Lift it off the mount and carefully place it right side up on the blanket.
- If the TV screws into the mount: Have one person hold the TV while the other removes the screws from the wall or mount. Gently lower the television to the blanket. Place the screws in a zip-top baggie and label them. Tape the bag of mounting screws to the back of the mounting device, so you don't lose them.
4. Box it up
Your boxing strategy will depend on what box you decide to use for packing:
The original box:
If you have the TV's original box, use it. Hopefully, you kept the manufacturer's padding, which will provide the best protection for your television.
TV moving box kit:
If packing it in a TV moving box kit, follow the kit steps and use the moving kit's protective cover for the screen.
Regular box:
If you're using a large moving box, carefully wrap the moving blanket around your TV, secure the blanket with packing tape or movers' wrap, and gently place it upright in the box.
No matter how you pack your television, always keep your TV upright to avoid damaging the screen.
No matter how you pack your television, always keep your TV upright to avoid damaging the screen.
5. Seal and label the box
Seal the box with packing tape and label it with TV' and the destination room such as Family Room,' Living Room,' or Master Bedroom.' Be sure to also clearly label the box as “FRAGILE” and draw arrows pointing up, so movers know to be extra careful and to keep the television upright.
<Framed Pictures>
- Medium moving boxes and picture/mirror boxes
- Artists' tape
- Packing paper
- Various sizes of cardboard sheets
- Utility knife or scissors
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up a packing station
A dining table is ideal. Clear the space so you'll have plenty of room to work. Place your supplies and a stack of packing paper on the table.
2. Scan your house for all the framed pictures that will be packed
Gather smaller pictures together near your packing station. Note, it's easier to leave large framed prints hanging on the wall until you're reading to wrap them.
3. Wrap each framed picture separately
Lay an individual picture on the stack of paper; spread out layers of paper if the frame is exceptionally large. Place an X from corner to corner on the glass using artists' tape, then place a piece of cardboard that is slightly larger than the frame, over the glass. Wrap several pieces of paper up and around the picture and secure the loose ends with packing tape. Label the wrapped picture with a permanent marker.
4. Box the wrapped framed pictures
Cushion the bottom of a moving box with crumpled packing paper. Set the wrapped framed pictures side-by-side in the box. Do not lay them flat. Note that large pieces should be boxed individually in picture/mirror boxes. Fill any open space around the frames with additional crumpled packing paper.
For especially valuable or fragile framed pictures, you can purchase special picture packing kits. These kits provide foam corners to protect frames and can handle items up to 65 pounds.
5. Tape the box closed and label the contents
Label the box with 'framed pictures,' and include the destination room. In large lettering, write 'fragile' on all sides and the top of the moving box.
<Paintings>
- Picture/mirror boxes
- Packing paper
- 3-Ply paper packing pads
- Glassine paper
- Scissors
- Artists' tape
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up a packing station
Either your living room floor or your dining table will make a great place to pack your paintings. Clear the space, so you'll have plenty of room to work. Lay a blanket on the floor or table, then a stack of packing paper on top of it. An important note here: never use plastic of any kind when packing a painting.
2. Scan your house for all the paintings you will pack
Gather smaller paintings together near your packing station. Leave larger artwork hanging on the wall until you're reading to wrap them.
3. Wrap paintings covered with glass
Lay an individual painting on the stack of paper. Spread out layers of paper, if the frame is exceptionally large. You should place valuable paintings and artwork on a 3-ply paper pad for added protection. With artists' tape, put an “X” from corner to corner on the glass. This step will stabilize the glass, but if it does happen to break, the pieces won't shatter and cut the canvas. Place a piece of cardboard that is slightly larger than the frame, over the glass.
Wrap several layers of paper up and around the painting, or wrap with the padded paper pad, and secure the loose ends with packing tape. Label the wrapped art with a permanent black marker.
4. Paintings with the canvas exposed
Cut a piece of glassine paper three inches larger than the canvas, then turn it over on top of the glassine paper. Wrap the glassine up around the back of the painting and secure it to the wooden stretcher frame with artists' tape.
Next, wrap thick layers of bubble wrap or packing paper (for a more eco-friendly option) around the painting and secure them with packing tape. Only use packing tape on the packing paper, never on the canvas. Label the back of the wrapped canvas with a permanent black marker.
5. Box the wrapped paintings
Large paintings should be boxed individually in picture/mirror boxes. You can pack smaller paintings together in a medium-sized moving box. Be sure to keep each item stacked vertically. Do not lay them flat.
Line the bottom of the box with crumpled packing paper, then carefully add the wrapped paintings to the box. Fill all of the open space with additional crumpled packing paper.
6. Tape the box closed and label the contents
Label the box, 'Painting,' and include the destination room. In large lettering, write 'fragile' on all sides and the top of the box.
Especially valuable or fragile paintings may be safer if moved in custom-made crates. Great Guys Moving can match you with top-tier fine art moving companies who are skilled and experienced at relocating your most valuable paintings.
<Lamps>
- Medium, large, and tall moving boxes
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Count how many lamps you'll be packing
Knowing how many lamps you're packing will help you figure out the number and size of packing boxes you'll need. Use large boxes to accommodate lampshades, and consider buying special boxes to accommodate tall lamps.
2. Set up your packing station
Gather your supplies and place a stack of packing paper on a table.
3. Disassemble each lamp
Unscrew the lampshade, remove the bulb, harp, and any other removable parts. Wind the cord and secure it with a twisty tie or rubberband.
4. Wrap the lamp base
Place the base on its side at the corner of a stack of packing paper or bubble wrap. Pull several layers of paper up around it as you gently roll the base away from you. Tape the paper securely with packing tape.
For large glass or ceramic lamps, you'll overlap several layers of packing paper. Set the lamp base in the middle of the overlapping sheets of packing paper. Then, pull the paper up and around the lamp. Again, you'll use packing tape to secure the paper.
Wrap floor lamps in their standing position. Starting at the base, use several layers of packing paper and tape the paper as you wrap the lamp, working your way to the top. If the lamp is especially valuable, you can make a box to protect it.
5. Pack wrapped lamps in moving boxes
Prepare a box by taping the bottom seam securely; use several layers of tape for boxes that will hold heavier lamps. Layer crumpled packing paper in the bottom of the box. Unless an individual base is hefty, you can pack several lamps per box. Be sure to allow at least two inches of space between lamps and pack that area with crushed packing paper. Wrap the lamp's harp and bulb in packing paper and add these to the box.
6. Pack the lampshades
Nest lampshades together in a large box. Make sure your hands are clean, so the shades don't get soiled. Place the largest shade upside down in the box. Place a layer of packing paper over the shade and nestle smaller shades into the larger shade, separating each shade with packing paper.
7. Tape the boxes closed with packing tape and label
Label the contents 'lamps' and the destination room. Also, write 'fragile' in large lettering on all sides and the top of the box.
<Mirrors>
- Mirror boxes
- One 3-ply paper packing pad for each large mirror
- Artists' tape
- Cardboard sheets
- Utility knife
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up your packing station
Gather your packing supplies and find a convenient place to pack your mirrors.
2. Wrap the mirrors
Start by getting help with oversized or bulky mirrors. Place a 3-ply paper packing pad on your packing station. Carefully set the mirror face up on the paper packing pad. Run an “X” of artists' tape from corner to corner of the mirror. Large mirrors may need additional artists' tape in the form of a cross over the “X.” For added protection, cut a piece of cardboard slightly larger than the mirror and place it over the glass. Pull the pad up around the mirror, ideally overlapping two layers. Tape the paper securely closed with packing tape.
3. Prepare the mirror box and pack the mirror
Tape the bottom seam of the mirror box with packing tape. For especially heavy mirrors, tape around the bottom perimeter to add extra strength to the box. Place plenty of crumpled paper at the bottom of the box to cushion the mirror. Place the wrapped mirror in the box and fill any space with crumpled packing paper.
4. Tape the box tightly closed and label the contents
Using your permanent black marker, write 'mirror,' the room the mirror goes in, and 'fragile' in large lettering on both sides of the box. Place the packed mirror box against a wall or other location where it will remain standing. Do not lay it flat, and don't pack anything on top of the mirror box.
<Houseplants>
- Moving boxes
- One plastic pot for each plant, the same size as the clay pot
- Sterilized potting soil
- Sphagnum moss
- Plant stakes
- Kraft paper
- Packing paper or newspaper
- Packing tape
1. Understand state restrictions
If you're moving to a new state, first check the state's Department of Agriculture website to make sure the plants you want to bring with you are permitted. If you know something about seed and nursery catalogs, you're aware that some states prohibit certain plants because introducing new plants from other areas can spread disease, pests, and weeds. Don't even think about trying to sneak your plants across state borders. State officials inspect moving vans at border crossings and will impose fines for illegal contents.
2. Understand your moving company's restrictions
Most moving companies will not transport plants, especially for long-distance moves. Be sure to confirm with your moving company before you start to pack your plants. If they won't carry your plants, make sure you have adequate space in your vehicle to do so.
3. Consider temperatures during the move and the climate of your new home
Consider your plants' hardiness and their adaptability to environmental changes. And be aware that the cargo area of a moving van isn't temperature controlled. If you're moving during temperate seasons, your leafy buddies will be able to survive about two or three days inside the truck. During the summer and winter, most plants won't survive a single day. They'll be a lot happier if they can accompany you in the passenger compartment, not the trunk, of your car with the A/C or heater keeping them comfortable.
4. Repot each plant into a plastic pot
About a month before your move, repot your plants into plastic pots the same size as the original pot. A month should give your plants time to adjust to their new pots and soil, allowing them a better chance of surviving their trip. Use fresh, sterilized potting soil. Sterilized soil is free of pests and reduces the chance of your plants carrying an unwanted traveler to your new home. You can buy sterilized soil at any home improvement center.
5. Prune and trim
About a week before your move, trim up your plants and prune as necessary. Pruning keeps your plants healthy, reduces the chance of broken branches or stems, and makes them more compact to pack up properly.
6. Water each plant
About two days before your move, thoroughly water each plant. On moving day, you want the soil to be moist but not soaking wet. Thorough watering a few days before moving should provide your plants with the moisture they need to handle the trip.
7. Add support
Stake leggy or tall plants to add support. Trees like palms and ficus may seem sturdy, but the continual motion of transport can quickly weaken their trunks and cause damage.
8. Contain the soil
If a plant is so tall that you'll need to lay it at an angle or on its side, contain the soil by packing moistened sphagnum moss between the trunk and the edge of the pot. Wrap Kraft paper around the pot and over the moss, then tape closed. Avoid wrapping with plastic.
9. Wrap the plants
Use Kraft paper to make a paper cone for each plant. The cone will contain the branches, stems, and leaves, protecting them from damage. Wrap tall trees with Kraft paper, so the branches are protected. Avoid using stretch wrap or plastic to wrap plants and trees. Plastic prevents plants from breathing and can encourage mold.
10. Place in boxes
Put the wrapped plants in boxes and fill the air spaces around the pots with tightly crumpled packing paper or newspaper to prevent them from sliding and moving.
<Rugs>
- Brown Kraft paper or a clean bed linen
- Twine or movers' wrap
1. Thoroughly vacuum the rug
Pet hair, house dander, and food spills are not friends to packed up rugs. Carefully vacuum the carpet to remove all dirt. In step 4, you'll clean the underside of the rug.
2. Spot clean
If you notice stains after vacuuming, use a clean rag and gentle cleaner to remove them. This step is particularly crucial if your rug will be going into storage. If you spot clean, make sure that the carpet is completely dry before rolling it. If your rug is especially valuable, it will be worthwhile to have it professionally cleaned. Professional rug cleaners carefully wrap rugs after cleaning them, so if you opt for cleaning, you'll save yourself the wrapping process.
3. Verify the direction of the rug's nap
Unless you're moving a flat weave rug like a kilim, following this step is crucial for pile rugs because when you begin rolling your carpet, you'll want to roll it against the direction of the nap. How do you determine the nap's direction? Rub your hand slowly back and forth over the rug's surface. In one direction, the fibers will resist your hand's movement, but in the other direction, the fibers will feel smooth. The smooth movement indicates the direction of the nap.
4. Turn the rug upside down to vacuum and prepare to roll
Take the time to vacuum the underside of the rug. It's surprising how much gunk can accumulate under a carpet, especially if you have pets. After cleaning the backside, leave the rug upside down to start rolling. Why do you want your rug to be facedown when you roll it? If you roll a pile rug with the pile facing up, it adds extra strain and pressure to the rug's backing. This pressure can stretch or crack the backing.
5. Roll the rug
When the rug is thoroughly dry, lay it upside down on a flat surface. Smooth out any warps or creases and start rolling with the nap pointing toward you - this means you'll be turning the rug against the direction of the nap. Roll slowly and evenly, creating a cylinder.
For a carpet sized 10'x13' or over, moving it can be more manageable if you fold it before rolling. Follow the previous four steps, then fold the rug into thirds, just as you would if folding a letter in thirds to fit into an envelope. Once you fold the rug, then roll it against the direction of the nap. Note that some experts advise against folding a fine rug. Consult an expert who knows about your type of rug if you have questions.
6. Tie the rug with twine
Twine is an excellent choice to tie your rug with because it has some give and won't put too much pressure on the carpet at the secured points. Tie each end to secure the carpet. Alternatively, secure the roll by wrapping movers' wrap around each end of the rug. Don't wrap packing tape around your rolled-up rug, as this may damage the fibers.
7. Wrap the rug
Wrap the rug entirely with heavy brown Kraft paper. Allow the Kraft paper to overlap the rug ends by a good eight inches. Fold the excess paper at the ends into the inside cylinder of the rug. Alternatively, you can wrap the rug in an old (but clean) bed linen. Either option will protect the rug from any dirt or dust on the moving van and from the moving process itself. Avoid using any kind of plastic when wrapping your rug. Plastic, like plastic rug bags, will trap moisture and encourage a breeding ground for mold and mildew.
<Furniture>
- Pieces of cardboard
- Utility knife
- Moving blankets
- Movers' stretch wrap or Kraft paper
- Tool kit
- Large moving box for loose pillows
- Plastic zip-top baggies or packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Take measurements
Before hefting your sofa to the doorway only to find out it won't fit through, measure the sofa's height, width, and depth, plus the height and width of doorways, hallways, or stairways. If you find out that your sofa won't fit unless you take off the legs or remove the door, you'll save yourself a lot of time and frustration. Repeat this process for any large pieces of furniture that won't obviously fit through a doorway.
2. Disassemble what you can
Disassembling furniture into smaller components will make navigating through the house easier, help prevent damage to your furniture, walls, and stairways, and save space on the moving van. Examples of items that may require disassembly include recliners with removable backs, bed frames, table legs, and certain types of shelving units. As you disassemble items, put the hardware in a zip-top baggie or wrap it in packing paper and label. Secure the hardware pouch to a piece of the furniture using movers' wrap, so it doesn't get lost or misplaced during the move.
3. Pack furniture pillows and cushions
Loose chair and sofa cushions and pillows can easily get damaged or lost if they aren't bagged or boxed correctly. You can easily pack these items in a large moving box. Also, cushions and pillows make great padding for fragile things like lamps and vases. It's a good idea to place paper between the pillow and the item you're padding, ensuring the cushion or pillow stays clean. Don't use your furniture pillows to cushion items with sharp edges.
4. Secure drawers and bundle items
Cabinet doors and dresser drawers can easily fly open when moving. Prevent a calamity by securing doors and drawers with movers' stretch wrap. Also, bundle table legs and removable shelves together with Kraft paper, so they stay protected during your move.
5. Protect corners with cardboard
The edges of your furniture are at the most risk for ripping, tearing, scratching, and other damage. You can fold a piece of cardboard to fit over furniture corners, then secure in place with movers' wrap.
6. Wrap furniture in moving blankets
Who doesn't love a soft, cozy blanket? Wrap your furniture with clean moving blankets to protect pieces from damage. Take the blankets outside and give them a good shake to make sure they're dust-free. Then, wrap each piece with as many layers as necessary to entirely cover the furniture. Secure the blankets with movers' stretch wrap or packing tape.
How to Pack a Closet
How to Pack a Closet
<Clothes>
- Large drawstring trash bags. Try to buy eco-friendly bags.
- Space/vacuum bags (optional)
- Medium and large moving boxes
- Wardrobe boxes (optional - more on these boxes here)
- Packing paper
- Movers' wrap (optional)
- Moving blankets (optional)
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Gather and purge
The first step to efficient packing is a good purge. It's pointless to pack clothes, shoes, and handbags that you won't use after you move. But before you can purge your clothing, you'll need to gather up items from all over the house and put them back in closets, drawers, and other places you store your clothes. Once you gather all your clothing, go through your closets and drawers, pull out items that don't fit, things that are worn-out to the point of being useless, or pieces you simply don't like anymore. Maybe you wear your tuxedo every two or three years, but for all your other clothes, the rule of thumb is to say goodbye to anything you haven't worn in over a year. This 41 minute long video will guide you through every step of the process! Set aside quality pieces to sell online or at a consignment store and place useful giveaway clothing into trash bags to donate. Once you've purged your clothing, packing it will seem far less overwhelming.
2. Organize clothes by climate
This step may seem like extra work, but it's worthwhile and is an especially important step if you're moving to a different climate. If you're moving from a mild climate to one with four seasons, you'll appreciate having your wardrobe organized by season. Don't pack swimsuits with sweaters and fleece. Set aside summer wear to pack in separate boxes from winter wear. If you're moving from a four-seasons climate to a mild climate, you probably won't need all those coats, sweaters, gloves, mufflers, and boots. Those items can go into the donate bag or the consignment store.
3. Use your suitcases and duffle bags
Go ahead and use your suitcases and travel bags to pack clothing. Of course, you'll want to set aside the bags that you'll use to pack the essential clothing you'll need during your move, but use your extra duffle bags and suitcases to pack your clothing. The more suitcases you can use, the fewer moving boxes you'll need to buy.
4. Use space bags
Once you pack clothing in a space bag and vacuum out the air, you'll be amazed at how compact the package will be. These bags are a great investment and an excellent way to store out-of-season clothing after your move. Once you seal the space bag, it will protect your clothing from moisture and pests. Space/vacuum bags come in all sizes, including long bags for suits, dresses, and coats, which, once sealed, can hang in a wardrobe box. Smaller bags are great for sweaters, fleece, and pants and, when sealed, can easily be packed in medium moving boxes. If you use space bags, you'll need fewer wardrobe and moving boxes, which translates to lower moving costs.
5. Keep as many clothes on hangers as possible
You'll save heaps of time packing if you keep your clothing on hangers. Group about six to eight pieces of clothing together on the clothes pole in your closet. Fluff open a large trash bag and pull it up from the bottom of the grouping to the necks of the hangers. Use the bag's drawstring to tie the hangers together. Be sure the tie is tightly secured, so the hangers don't come loose and fall into the bag. If you're sure the bags won't get crushed or torn, simply transport the bags as-is.
For extra protection, you can place the bags in a large moving box or, ideally, hang the bagged clothes in wardrobe boxes.
6. Pack your folded clothing
Items that you can't hang in wardrobe boxes will go into moving boxes. Line the bottom and sides of the moving box with packing paper. You can either fold or roll your clothing and pack it into a box. Rolling maximizes space in a box. Avoid unnecessary creases by not packing the box too full. Small pieces of clothing accessories like scarves, underwear, gloves, belts, and socks can fill the air spaces in the box.
7. Alternatively, keep your clothes in the dresser
- Take any items that may make the dresser too heavy. Pack those things in a moving box.
- If you're moving a short distance, you can keep the clothing in the drawers but consider removing the drawers to make the dresser lighter. Wrap each drawer with layers of packing paper and tape the paper so that it's secure. Do yourself a favor and label the contents of each drawer. Alternatively, you can wrap around each drawer with several layers of movers' wrap. This wrap will not only protect the contents of the drawer but will enable you to see what's inside. It may be especially helpful to number the drawers according to how they fit in the dresser.
- If you move the dresser with the drawers in, cover it with a moving blanket and tape around it so the drawers will stay closed.
8. Handle special clothing with care
Special clothing includes items made from delicate fabrics such as silk, lace, cashmere, jeweled or sequined fabrics, fur, and other fragile materials. It can also include sentimental or nostalgic pieces, such as a tuxedo or your wedding dress, and items that are valuable or expensive, like designer labels. These pieces need extra TLC when you pack and move them. Take care to protect this delicate clothing by placing it in garment bags. Hang the garment bags in dedicated wardrobe boxes, separate from everyday clothing.
<Ties>
- Small or medium size moving box
- Tie case (optional)
- Pieces of cardboard the same size as your moving box
- Utility knife
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up your tie staging area and gather your packing supplies
Your bed is an ideal place to stage your ties and organize them for packing. Gather your moving supplies at one end of the bed.
2. Purge
You probably have favorite ties that you wear more than others. And you have some special occasion ties. But it's time to donate the ones you never use or toss the ones decorated with spaghetti sauce and wine stains. Now that you know which ties you'll be packing, and how many, choose one of the packing options below.
3. Choose a packing option
- The hanging option: If you store your ties on a rack that hangs on your closet pole, simply hang this rack on the metal rod in a wardrobe box with other clothing.
- The rolling option: Some people prefer to keep their ties rolled for storage. If that's you, fold each tie in half, leaving about three inches of the wide end longer than the narrow end. Starting at the fold, with the skinny side of the tie facing up, begin rolling. Place the rolled tie on its edge in a small box. Keeping the rolls together will prevent them from unraveling.
- The folding option: Slide the narrow end through the loop on the back of the tie. Pull through and line up the tips of the wide end and small end together. The necktie is now essentially folded in half. Take the narrow end and slide it through the self-loop again. Line the bottom of a small moving box with packing paper. Lay the tie flat in the moving box. Once all of your ties are in the moving box, cover them with a layer of packing paper and seal the box closed.
- A tie case option: One of the easiest ways to pack and move your ties is to use a tie case. A case will completely protect your ties, and it makes them super easy to pack. Just place the filled tie case on top of some folded clothes in a moving box, and that's it. Investing in a tie case for moving is worthwhile because you can also use it to protect ties when traveling.
4. Seal up the box and label it
Seal the box closed with packing tape, then use your permanent black marker to label the box with the contents and the destination room.
<Shoes>
- The original shoe boxes, if available
- Small-and medium-sized moving boxes (more on packing box sizes here)
- Cloth shoe bags with drawstrings (optional)
- Tissue paper
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Gather all of your shoes and set them up next to your packing station
Your bed is a great place to gather your shoes together. Place an old sheet on the bed, then group your shoes by type. Put all sandals in one group, trainers in another, heels in another, and so on. Use this process for each family member's shoes. Some shoes may be sitting in a mud-room, or near a door. Be sure to gather those too. Any dirty, muddy shoes should, of course, be wiped clean before packing.
2. Purge and organize
Toss damaged or worn-out shoes that are no longer usable. Donate shoes you never wear or that are uncomfortable. If your children's shoes are still perfectly usable, but won't be passed down to younger siblings, donate them.
3. Pack your quality shoes and boots
Start by packing your more expensive pairs. First, stuff the toe box of each shoe with crushed tissue paper so it will retain its shape. Fill boots from toe to shaft with crumpled tissue paper. Then, wrap each shoe or boot in a piece of tissue paper and place it in the original box, just as when they were new. If you still have the original drawstring shoe or boot bags, be sure to use those. Place the filled shoe and boot boxes in a moving box and fill the empty spaces with crushed packing paper. If you don't have the original boxes or drawstring bags, carefully wrap each shoe or boot with tissue and place in small moving boxes with plenty of crushed packing paper.
4. Pack your everyday shoes
You can pack your everyday shoes in moving boxes, no problem.
- First, prepare a medium size moving box. Securely tape the bottom seam of the box, then place a layer of crumpled packing paper in the bottom of the box. Now you're ready for your sandals, shoes, and boots.
- Fill boots with crushed tissue paper, so they'll hold their shape. Then, wrap each shoe or boot separately in a sheet of packing paper. Place a layer of wrapped shoes at the bottom of the box.
- Crumple extra packing paper around and on top of the wrapped shoes. Add another layer of wrapped shoes on the crumpled paper.
- Finally, place one additional layer of crumpled packing paper on the top.
5. Tape the moving box closed and label
Securely tape the top seam of the moving box. Use your permanent black marker to label the box with the contents, such as 'dress shoes,' 'sandals,' 'boots,' and so forth. And be sure to write the destination room.
<Hangers>
- Medium size moving box
- Masking tape
- String
- Scissors
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Gather all of your loose hangers
Throw all of your hangers on your bed. Be sure to gather stray hangers from other bedrooms and the laundry room.
2. Purge
Gather broken, bent, and unusable hangers and recycle those that you can. Put the remainder in the trash. Donate functional hangers that you no longer use.
3. Put hangers in categories
Separate hangers into piles. You'll likely have quality wooden hangers of several types - pants, suits, and coat hangers. Separate those by category and continue the process with padded hangers, 'velvet' covered space saving hangers, pants and skirts hangers with clips, plastic hangers, child-size hangers, and if you use them, wire hangers. And you also may have some scarf, lingerie, tie (see 'How to Pack Your Ties for a Move'), or belt hangers. Separate those as well.
4. Grab a set of six matching hangers
Gather together six hangers of the same type and tape the necks together with masking tape or string. Then, tape or tie the hangers together at the bottom. Now those little beasts can't get loose or tangled. Do not use packing tape to join hangers - packing tape is hard to remove and leaves a sticky residue. Continue taping or tying all of your hangers in bunches of six.
5. Pack the hangers
Place the hanger sets at the bottom of your wardrobe boxes. Alternatively, you can use a medium size box and stack the sets in the box with the hooks positioned down toward the corner of the box. Place more sets in the box, side by side. You may want to wrap several layers of packing paper around sets of fabric-padded or quality wooden hangers for protection.
6. Seal the moving box and label it
Seal the moving box closed with packing tape. Use your permanent black marker to label the box, 'hangers,' and write the destination room on the box, so the movers or your helpers will know where to deliver the box.
<Jewelry>
- Jewelry boxes and rolls
- Tissue paper
- Scotch tape
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Small moving boxes
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up a packing station
Clear off a table or dresser and gather your moving supplies. Jewelry has many tiny parts, so you'll want to work on a space where you have plenty of room to see all the small pieces.
2. Layout all of the jewelry that you'll be packing
Remember, don't include your valuable jewelry in boxes that will go on the moving van. Gather stray pieces from the bathroom, bedroom, kitchen, and other rooms and lay everything out on the packing station.
3. Purge
If you only have a solo earring or a necklace with a broken clasp, now is the time to set aside pieces for repair or donation. Don't throw jewelry in the trash. Some artists love to recycle jewelry into crafts and repurposed pieces, so be sure to donate unwanted pieces to a charity or place an ad online.
4. Box or wrap each piece
- If you can, place all loose jewelry in jewelry boxes, cases, or fabric jewelry rolls. Pack tissue around pieces in your jewelry box so they won't shift.
- Don't have jewelry box? Try keeping your rings, earrings, and other small jewelry items organized in a pill box.
- If you have too many pieces to fit in boxes and rolls, wrap each piece with tissue paper. Lay the item at one end of a piece of tissue and roll the paper. After several rolls, add another item and continue rolling until you get to the end of the paper.
- It may be tempting to put chains in a pretty jewelry pouch or even in zip-top baggies, but chains quickly become tangled, so wrapping in tissue is your best bet for keeping jewelry untangled.
5. Wrap jewelry boxes and rolls
Wrap your jewelry boxes and jewelry rolls individually in several layers of packing paper and tape securely closed. Label the package.
6. Prepare a small moving box
Tape the bottom seam securely with packing tape. Fill the inside bottom of the box with crumpled packing paper. Place the wrapped jewelry boxes and rolls in a moving box and place crumpled packing paper around and on the top of the jewelry packages.
7. Seal the moving box and label it
Seal the moving box closed with packing tape. Use your permanent black marker to label the box, 'jewelry,' and write the destination room on the box, so the movers or your helpers will know where to deliver the box.
<Hats>
- Original hat boxes
- Medium and large moving boxes (see our full breakdown on moving boxes here)
- Tissue paper
- Scotch tape
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up your packing station
Your bed makes an ideal packing station. Collect your moving supplies and place them at one end of the bed.
2. Gather up all of your hats
Scan through your closets, your entry hall, and even the backyard patio or garage and gather your hats.
3. Purge and categorize hats by the size of the brim
Sort through your stack and weed out beat-up, stained hats that have seen better days or hats that you never wear. Put unusable hats in the trash and donate the rest. Once you've sorted all the hats that you want to pack, categorize them by the size of the brim. Set aside those that have original hat boxes.
4. Pack hats in the original hat boxes
If you're a hat aficionado, you've probably saved your hat boxes. Often, they're almost as special as the hats that come in them. Place your hat upside down in the box and cushion it with crumpled tissue paper. Place the hatbox on crushed paper in a moving box. Fill the sides and top with crushed paper. Then, seal the box and label it.
5. Pack everyday hats without the original hatbox
Select about six hats with the same size brim. Separate each hat with tissue paper as you nest them together upside down on a layer of crumpled paper in a moving box. Fill the remainder of the box with crumpled paper. Use the same method to pack large brimmed hats in large moving boxes. For baseball caps, stack six at a time without separating with tissue paper; wrap the entire stack with packing paper. Ski caps, beanies, and knitted caps don't need special attention. You can use them instead of crumpled paper to fill space in the box.
6. Packing fine hats without a hatbox
If you need to pack some quality hats but don't have the original hat boxes, be sure to give each one some extra packing care. Prepare a moving box as in step 5 above. Fill the inside of the crown with crushed tissue paper. Wrap the entire hat in a few layers of tissue paper and pack the hat by itself in the moving box. Fill spaces around the hat with crumpled tissue paper. Seal the box and label it.
7. Seal and label the box
Close the box and secure it with packing tape. Label the box 'Hats,' or the kind of hat, i.e. 'Baseball Caps,' and the destination room.
How to Pack a Bedroom
How to Pack a Bedroom
<Bedframes>
- Toolkit with screwdriver and wrench
- Moving blankets
- Zip-top baggies or packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Get another person to help
Disassembling furniture, especially a bulky bed frame, is definitely a two-person job. Are your bedframes made of metal or wood? Do some have an attached headboard and footboard, or just a headboard? Each bed in your house may have a different configuration, from platform beds, sleigh beds, and canopy beds to bunk beds and more. Whatever the types, be sure to get help disassembling.
2. Gather your packing supplies
Spread out a moving blanket on the floor so you can immediately place each piece in a protected place as you disassemble the frame. Have your tool kit, zip-top baggies, packing tape, and permanent marker ready.
3. Strip the bed
Remove all of the bedding. If you have time, launder your sheets and pillowcases, so you'll have clean linens when you reassemble and make your bed at your new house. We provide tips packing your bedding in this section: How to Pack Pillows and Bedding for Moving.
4. Remove the mattress and box spring
When you remove the mattress and box spring, either lean it against a wall or go ahead and put it in a mattress bag/box as long as you're handling it. We outline the best methods to pack your mattress and box spring here: How to Pack a Mattress and Box Spring for Moving.
5. Remove the headboard and footboard from the bedframe
Bedframes attach to headboards and footboards in a variety of ways:
Some metal bedframes snap together.
Some metal and wood bedframes attach with screws or nuts and bolts.
Some attach with specially-made brackets.
If your bed frame is attached to the headboard and footboard with screws, use a screwdriver to remove the screws. If your bedframe connects to the headboard and footboard with specially made brackets, using a block to jostle the brackets loose can be helpful. If the bed has slats that screw into the bed frame rails, remove those and stack the slats together.
Place all the screws, nuts, and bolts in a zip-top baggie or wrap them in a piece of packing paper and tape closed. Place the hardware in separate baggies or packages for each part of the bed frame. Be sure to label so there won't be any confusion about what goes where when you reassemble the bedframe in your new home.
6. Wrap the headboard, footboard, and rails in moving blankets
Place the footboard diagonally on the blanket. Wrap the blanket around the footboard and secure it with packing tape or movers' wrap. Use the same process for the headboard, and then the side rails and slats. Attach each bag of hardware to the corresponding part of the bed, with tape or movers' wrap. This way, those essential nuts and bolts won't go missing during the move.
<Bedding & Pillows>
- Large moving boxes (see more on moving box sizes and types here)
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Gather your moving supplies and set up a convenient place to pack
Decide on a convenient location to pack. Prepare your moving boxes by securely taping the bottom seam of the box. To keep bedding clean and dust-free, line the inside bottom and sides of the box with sheets of packing paper. Just prepare one box at a time; otherwise, empty boxes that take up a lot of room will clutter your bedroom.
2. Sort and purge bedding
Sort through your bedding, setting aside worn pillows, blankets, sheets, and quilts that you no longer want. These worn-out linens can provide excellent cushioning for lamps, large vases, and fragile or breakable accessories. Donate any bedding you don't plan to use for cushioning and are sure you won't use in your new home. For sanitary reasons, used bed pillows should be thrown out or recycled. Finally, place quality bedding that you intend to use post-move in separate piles for packing.
3. Pack your bedding in stages
- First, pack out of season bedding and decorative items like throw pillows, quilts, afghans, and such.
- Next, pack all of the linens you won't use before your move.
- King or queen size bedding and duvets should go in a large box lined with clean packing paper. Put the most voluminous pieces in the box first. Since linens hold a lot of air, press down repeatedly on each item to remove as much of the air as possible and make space for more bedding.
- Smaller items, like sheets or pillows, can go in next. Once the box is full, place a layer of packing paper on top of the bedding before closing the box.
- Then, deal with the bedding you currently use. Since you and family members will be sleeping in your beds up until your actual move, you'll need your bed pillows, sheets, and blankets or duvets. Make a plan for how you want to deal with bedding on the morning of the move. You simply may not have time to launder all of it. The most manageable plan with these linens is to strip each bed, place the bedding in a large trash bag, label the bag, and deal with the laundry after your move.
4. If you need to conserve space, use vacuum storage bags
Investing in a few vacuum storage bags can end up saving you some money in moving costs. You'll need fewer boxes, resulting in needing less space on the moving van. They're also great for storing extra bedding after your move. If you use vacuum storage bags, be sure anything you put in the bag is completely dry to prevent mold and mildew.
5. Seal the box closed and label it
Secure the box with packing tape. Label it with its contents and the destination room.
<Mattresses & Box Springs>
- Mattress bag or box
- Box spring bag or box
- Long webbed moving straps (optional)
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Find someone to assist
Mattresses are unwieldy and cumbersome. Plan to have someone help you move it off the bed frame and pack it.
Note that regular mattresses and box springs can be carried and transported on their sides. The methods of packing and moving a foam mattress are controversial. Some experts recommend that a foam mattress remain flat during transport, and others say it can sit on its side for up to about two weeks before the foam layers start shifting. Contact your foam mattress manufacturer for their packing and moving recommendations.
2. Remove all linens and bedding, including the mattress cover
Start by stripping the mattress of any linens. You'll pack your bedding separately. See How to Pack Pillows and Bedding in the previous section.
3. Remove the mattress from the bed frame and wrap it in a mattress bag
Always place your mattress in a mattress bag or box to protect it from damage, dirt, and pests.
Seal the bag or box securely with packing tape. Mattress boxes are especially beneficial if you're worried the mattress bag may get ripped or torn.
If you're moving more than one mattress and box spring, be sure to label the bag or box with its room destination.
4. Remove the box springs from the bedframe and wrap in a mattress bag
Next, place your box spring, or two box springs in the case of king size beds, in a mattress bag or box to keep it clean and protected. Seal the bag or box securely with packing tape.
5. Tip for carrying mattress and box springs
Most mattresses don't have carry handles. And once the mattress or box spring is covered with a plastic bag or box, how can you move such a big unwieldy thing? Some people stand the mattress on its side and then push or slide it across rooms and through doorways. Although this seems like the easiest way to move such a bulky item, it can cause the bag to rip, resulting in dirt and damage to the side of your mattress.
One solution is to use a long moving strap that you wrap underneath the mattress. A person at each end will use one hand to lift the strap holding the bulk of the weight while the other hand is used to balance the mattress on the strap.
How to Pack a Bathroom
How to Pack a Bathroom
<Makeup>
- Small moving boxes
- Tissue paper
- Scissors
- Cling wrap
- Zip-top baggies
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
- Travel cosmetic bag
1. Sort your makeup by size and type
Unless you keep your makeup organized like a mini Sephora store, you'll need to categorize it before starting to pack. Not only is it easier to pack by category, but doing so also simplifies unpacking, organizing, and accessing your makeup after your move.
2. Set up your packing station
Find a convenient place to set up your packing supplies and makeup.
3. Pack your daily makeup
Pack your daily makeup in your travel cosmetic bag. The day before your move, put your cosmetic bag in your 'essentials' box.
4. Separate all flammable and alcohol-based products
Alcohol-based and flammable items like nail polishes are not allowed on a moving truck. Either carry these items in your car or give them to a friend. You can fly with those products if each container is less than 3.4 ounces and all fits in a quart-size clear plastic zip-top bag.Alcohol-based and flammable items like nail polishes are not allowed on a moving truck. Either carry these items in your car or give them to a friend. You can fly with those products if each container is less than 3.4 ounces and all fits in a quart-size clear plastic zip-top bag.
5. Purge and check expiration dates
Purge makeup you never use and give it to friends if it's still usable. Toss eye makeup that's older than six months. Generally, other products are unsafe to use two years from the purchase date.
6. Start packing!
Drawer organizers:
- If you keep your products in drawer organizers, take the organizer out of the drawer and fill the empty spaces with crushed tissue paper, so things don't rattle around
- Then, wrap the organizer with several layers of packing paper. Run a layer of packing tape around the package.
Items that will go in zip-top baggies:
- Eye and lip products such as mascaras, eyeliners, wands, and lipsticks
- Makeup brushes
- Pressed powders such as eye shadows and blushes need special attention so they won't crack and break
- Place a tissue or a cotton pad directly on the powder then close the lid
- Wrap the container with tissue and tape it to make sure the lid stays closed
Liquids in plastic or glass:
- Remove the cap, cover the opening with a piece of cling wrap, then replace the cap
- Tape the cap to the container
- No matter the size, wrap each glass bottle in tissue
- Place liquids in zip-top baggies
Pump bottles:
- Make sure each pump bottle has its dedicated cap
- Tape the cap to the bottle
- If the cap is missing, either transfer the contents to a secure container or toss the bottle. Unsealed pumps can cause a huge mess
Tubes:
- Squeeze out excess air so the contents won't leak with changing air pressure
- Screw the caps back on tightly and tape the lid to the tube
- Fill a zip-top baggie with tubes
7. Pack your wrapped, padded, burped, taped, and bagged items in sturdy boxes
- Seal the bottom seam of a small moving box with packing tape, then crumple tissue paper into the bottom
- Place heavy items on the bottom, and lighter filled baggies on top. Fill air spaces with crumpled tissue paper
- Seal the box with tape and label
<Toiletries>
- Small and medium moving boxes (find info on choosing moving boxes here)
- Quart and gallon-size zip-top baggies
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up your packing station and prepare your moving boxes
Find a convenient workspace and gather your packing supplies. Working with one box at a time, be sure to seal the bottom seam securely and place crumpled packing paper inside the bottom of the box.
2. Set aside essentials
Throughout your move, you'll need your usual daily products like shampoo, conditioner, toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, soap, hairbrush, toilet paper, clean towels, prescription medications, and so forth. Set them aside in an 'essentials' box that will stay with you during the move. You may want to add a first-aid kit, allergy, and painkiller meds too. Clearly label the box, 'essentials,' 'DO NOT SHIP.'
3. Purge your toiletries
A move provides an excellent opportunity to clean out your toiletries. Throw away expired or damaged products. After tossing unusable products in the trash, recycle any glass and plastic bottles. Do not pack aerosols such as deodorants and hairsprays, flammables like nail polish and remover, and items containing alcohol like mouthwash and astringents. Most moving companies will not transport these items. Either take them with you or give them to friends, along with other useful things you don't want.
4. Sort items
After you've decided what you'll purge and what you'll keep, categorize everything for packing. Separate liquids like shampoos and lotions; dry products like powders, cotton swabs, and pads; small appliances; medicines; dental products; shaving products, and so on.
5. Pack!
Once categorized, you can pack items accordingly.
- Dry products: Place dry items in zip-top bags or wrap them individually in packing paper.
- Liquids: For liquids, like your lotions, unscrew the lid, then place a piece of plastic wrap over the opening, and screw the lid back on. Place these bottles upright in zip-top baggies. Double-check to make sure the caps and lids are secure. Because most liquids are heavy and will be pricey to ship, you may prefer to donate them, then replace them after your move. Place the baggies with liquids right side up in the moving box.
- Electronics: Pack small electronics separately from liquids. Wrap each electronic in packing paper, label, and place in a cushioned moving box. If a cord is removable, make sure you pack it with the item. You can pad your electronics with rolls of toilet paper and filled baggies of dry toiletries.
6. Seal and label the box
Seal the box with packing tape and label both the contents and the destination room for each box, for example, 'Toiletries - Kids' Bathroom.'
How to Pack an Office
How to Pack an Office
<Computer>
- Medium or large moving box
- Original computer and electronics boxes, if available
- Zip-top baggies
- Twisty ties
- Packing paper
- Clean towels
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up a packing station
Gather all of the moving supplies you'll need and clear a convenient space to pack.
2. Back up your data
Any time you move a computer, your files are at risk for damage or loss. Back up your data and put the external USB or drive in your 'valuables' box along with passports, tickets, cash, fine jewelry, and such. You'll keep this box with you during the move. The temperatures in moving vans can get very hot, especially in the summer, so keep your back up drive with you during your move. Better yet, back up to the cloud, so you don't have to worry about keeping up with a USB drive.
3. Take photos
Before you disconnect any wires or cables from your computer, take photos to show you how to reconnect them after your move.
4. Disconnect cables and wires
Turn off the computer and all accessories. Disconnect cables and cords, and wrap each one, securing with a twisty tie. Place the cables, cords, and wires in a zip-top baggie and label it.
5. Pack your computer components in their original boxes
If you have the original boxes for your computer components, definitely use them. Unless you still have the antistatic monitor screen cover, wrap the screen with a towel that you secure with packing tape.
6. Steps for packing your desktop computer
- Pick the right-sized moving box: To determine the moving box size, measure the height, width, and depth of both your tower and monitor. Add those dimensions together then add three additional inches on all sides, bottom, and top to allow for necessary cushioning. These measurements will tell you the size of the box you need. Securely tape the bottom seam of the moving box with several overlapping layers of packing tape. Put a three-inch layer of tightly crumpled packing paper in the bottom of the box.
- Protect the monitor and tower: Wrap the monitor screen in a towel and secure it with packing tape. Place the monitor on one side of the box, right side up with the screen facing the inside of the box. Wrap the tower/CPU with several layers of packing paper. Place the tower on the opposite side of the box from the monitor. Plenty of cushioning is key for making sure your computer stays safe.
- Wrap the accessories: Be sure your mouse is turned off and wrap it in several layers of packing paper. Also, wrap the keyboard and any accessories such as speakers or soundbars. Pack these items, along with the baggie of cables, plugs, and wires, between the monitor and tower.
- Add cushioning: Add crumpled packing paper along the sides of the box and between the monitor, tower, and any accessories. Add more layers of crushed paper on top of the monitor and tower, then slightly shake the box to make sure nothing moves or shifts. Add more crumpled paper if necessary.
- Now seal and label the box: On the label, include the contents 'Desktop Computer,' as well as the destination 'Home Office.' Be sure to write 'fragile' on all four sides and the top of the box.
7. Packing your laptop computer
If you're not transporting your laptop on the moving van and plan to bring it with you during the move, simply place it in your usual laptop bag and be sure to include the charger and any accessories.
To pack your laptop for shipping, follow steps 1 - 5 above. If you can't pack your laptop in its original box, then follow these steps:
- Pick the right-sized moving box: Measure your laptop, then add three inches to each dimension. Choose a box that meets those measurements.
- Add padding and wrap: Crumple a three-inch layer of packing paper in the bottom of the box. Wrap your computer (you turned it off, right?) in several layers of packing paper and tape the loose ends.
- Add cushioning: Place the laptop on the layer of packing paper, and fill the four sides around the computer and over the top with more crumpled packing paper. Add the baggie of cords and cables, plus the wrapped mouse or other accessories. Add another layer of packing paper on top. Close the box flaps. Gently shake the box. If you can feel the computer shifting, add more crumpled packing paper until it's completely stationary.
- Now seal and label the box: Seal the box closed and label it with the contents and the words 'fragile' on all sides and top of the box.
<Printers & Electronics>
- Medium or large moving boxes
- Original boxes, if available
- Twisty ties
- Zip-top baggies
- Packing paper
- Packing tape
- Permanent black marker
1. Set up a packing station
Gather all of the moving supplies you'll need, then clear space to pack your printer and other electronics.
2. Take photos
Before you disconnect any plugs, cords, or cables from your printer or other electronics, take photos to remind you they will reconnect after your move.
3. Disconnect cables and wires
Turn off all of your electronics and accessories before disconnecting them. Then, disconnect cables and cords. Wrap each cord and secure the bundle with a twisty tie. Place the cables that belong to a specific electronic in a zip-top baggie and label it. Don't mix cords and cables of various electronic equipment in the same bag. Detangling and sorting them isn't worth the time and effort required. Note that even with cables and cords removed, some electronics work on back-up batteries. Ensure that you have turned off all equipment.
4. Detach removable parts
You must remove all feeders, paper holders, and add-on accessories. Wrap each one individually in packing paper, sealing with tape, then label the package.
5. Remove toners and ink cartridges
Unless you can guarantee that your printer will travel throughout the move in an upright position, remove the ink cartridges. Seal them in zip-top baggies. Laser printers, no matter the shipping position, must have ink cartridges removed. Transit can cause ink cartridges to leak, which can damage the internal parts of your printer (not to mention creating a mess). It's best to consult the owner's manual that came with your printer to know the best way to deal with ink cartridges and toners.
6. Prepare your boxes
Ideally, you'll pack each piece of equipment in its original box. But if you don't have those boxes, no worries. Measure your printer or all-in-one, paper shredder, and other large-size electronics to make sure you have the right size box to pack each item with plenty of cushioning. Allow at least three extra inches on all sides, bottom, and top, to pad the box adequately. Be sure the printer sits upright in the box.
You can safely pack all of your electronics in moving boxes if you cushion each item sufficiently. Be sure to carefully prepare each moving box by taping the bottom seam with several layers of packing tape and put a three-inch layer of crumpled packing paper in the bottom of the box.
7. Pack each electronic separately
Wrap each electronic item separately in several layers of packing paper, then label and place it in the box. Cushion each item with plenty of crumpled packing paper. Include the baggie of cables and cords that goes with each item. When the box is almost full, place another layer of crushed paper on the top and close the flaps.
8. Seal and label each box
Seal the top seam with packing tape and label the contents of each box, so you can easily access needed office equipment right after your move. Also, include the destination room on the label. For example, the box might read 'Home Office: Printer.'
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